Chapter 4: How to Buy Plants

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Welcome to the Deep Dive, where we take your chosen sources and unearth the most valuable insights.

Today, we're doing a deep dive into something every gardener eventually faces.

How to confidently acquire plants and seeds for your garden.

We're drawing our wisdom from Barbara Damrosch's fantastic The Garden Primer.

A classic source, definitely.

You've pictured your dream garden, you understand how plants grow, and your soil is prepped and ready.

Now comes the exciting but sometimes daunting moment of actually buying plants.

Right, you get there and it can be a bit much.

Standing in a nursery, surrounded by a sea of green with labels often in Latin, it can feel completely overwhelming.

Our mission today is to give you a true battle map for navigating this process.

Transforming any plant buying cold feet into confident green thumbs.

Indeed, and this isn't just about what to buy, but how to buy wisely.

We'll unpack the big picture lessons from the source on choosing the right plant, then drill down into the nitty gritty.

Well, understanding those mysterious plant names,

distinguishing between different plant types, practical tips for ensuring your new garden additions thrive,

and even a look at the wider implications of our plant purchases.

It's about building a strong foundation for your gardening success, and honestly, fostering a deeper connection with your plants.

Okay, let's dive right into what many find intimidating,

those Latin names.

The source emphasizes their incredible power.

Why are they so important?

How can they save us from making some really, well, costly mistakes?

It's fascinating,

really.

While common names like Johnny Jump Up or Charming, they can be incredibly confusing.

How so?

Well, take Monarda dedema, it's known as Bee Balm, Bergamot, and Oswego Tea,

or Stachycelinata, that's lamb's ears, Woolly Butany, and Saviour's Flannel.

Wow, okay, that's a lot for one plant.

Exactly, and the source gives a classic example.

If you ask for syringa, you might want a lilac, right?

Syringa vulgaris?

Yeah, common lilac.

But you could easily end up with a philadelphus, which is a totally different shrub, also sometimes called syringa.

Ah, I see, so you could buy the wrong thing entirely.

Precisely.

The core insight here is this.

Latin names, the botanical names, they're your universal plant ID.

They guarantee you get exactly what you intend.

So these botanical names are like a global passport for plants, and they're not just random words, are they?

They actually tell you something about the plant's nature.

Exactly right.

A plant's botanical name usually has two italicized Latin words.

The first is the genus.

Think of it as the family name, like a group of similar plants.

Okay, the genus.

The second is the species.

That's a smaller group within the family, and it often gives you a clue about a key characteristic.

Like an adjective.

Sort of.

For instance, the Johnny jump up is viola tricolor, and tricolor literally means three colors, because its petals have three colors.

Makes sense.

Or even a name like vulgaris, which sounds maybe a bit negative.

Yeah, a little harsh.

It just means common or ordinary.

The source also points out how names like davericata or procurans are like built -in warnings.

They tell you a plant is likely to spread widely.

Oh, that's useful, like a heads up.

It's like a secret shorthand embedded right in the name.

Really helpful.

That's a game changer for avoiding surprises.

Now, beyond genus and species, the source talks about cultivars.

Here's where human innovation really comes into play.

What exactly are cultivars?

Right, cultivars.

It's short for cultivated varieties.

These are plants produced through human efforts, not just found in the wild.

They have a third name, typically capitalized and in single quotes,

like syringa vulgaris alba.

Alba, white.

Exactly, for the white common lilac.

These aren't wild plants.

They're the result of careful breeding, like cross -pollinating different species or selecting for unique traits.

And how are they kept consistent?

Crucially, they're then propagated vegetatively.

That means from cuttings or divisions, not usually from seeds.

This ensures every single plant is an exact genetic clone of the original preserving those special traits.

So these are like the specialized versions of plants designed for our gardens.

What kind of improvements are we talking about?

And is there a downside?

Oh, we've seen incredible advancements.

Think rust -proof asparagus or spinach that can handle summer heat, tomatoes that set fruit even when it's cold.

Useful stuff.

Absolutely, giant fruits, huge flowers, miniature versions, even entirely new colors.

The source mentions the long quest for a truly blue rose or a pure white marigold.

Right, the holy grails of breeding.

Kind of.

But there's often a trade -off.

Sometimes desired traits, like fragrance, have been inadvertently bred out of modern hybrids in favor of, say, size or color stability.

Ah, really?

Yeah, many modern roses, sweet peas, even some heliotropes, for example.

They've lost that intense original scent.

That raises a really interesting question, then.

Why would a gardener choose an original species over one of these cultivated varieties or vice versa?

Well, it often comes down to personal taste and what you want in your garden.

Well, hybrid roses are way more common now than wild roses.

True.

Species plants, like the native Aquilegia canadensis, that's our lovely red and yellow columbine, they offer a different look, sometimes a wilder feel, or even greater fragrance, like with Nicotiana alai.

So it's an aesthetic choice sometimes.

Often, yes.

The author, for instance, says she prefers the single hollyhocks to the modern double ones because the doubles can get waterlogged and collapse in the rain.

Okay, practical, too.

But on the other hand, a hybrid aster that stands up straight and doesn't flop over, or a chrysanthemum that's genuinely hardy in your zone,

well, that can be a huge advantage for a low -maintenance garden.

Right, less staking and fussing.

Exactly.

And a key benefit of original species and many heirlooms, you can reliably save their seeds and they'll breed true, meaning the offspring look like the parent, which opens up this whole other world.

Seed saving.

Yeah, speaking of seeds, the source calls seed saving not just an old tradition, but a skilled craft, one our whole agricultural history rests on.

So what exactly is it and why should we consider it today?

It's fundamental, really.

For millennia, farmers and gardeners have saved seeds from their very best crops to plant the next year.

It's not just about saving money, though, that's nice.

It's about this profound act of selection.

By letting your biggest, healthiest, tastiest beets go to seed, collecting those seeds and replanting them year after year, you start developing your own unique strain, one that's perfectly adapted to your specific soil, your climate.

It fosters this incredible sense of self -sufficiency.

That sounds incredibly empowering.

But the source mentions something about F1 hybrids versus open pollinated varieties.

What's the difference there?

And why is that absolutely critical if you wanna save seeds successfully?

Ah, yes.

This is a vital distinction.

Most seed packets you find in stores these days are patented F1 hybrids.

F1 first generation.

Exactly, first generation.

They're the initial cross of two specific, often very different parent plants.

They're bred for certain traits, like uniformity or vigor.

But if you save seeds from these F1 hybrids, their offspring, the F2 generation, won't reliably look or perform like the F1 parent.

They often revert to displaying traits from the original grandparents and it can be quite unpredictable, often less desirable.

So saving F1 seeds is kind of a lottery.

Pretty much, yeah.

For true seed saving, where you want consistent results year after year, you need what are called open pollinated varieties.

Open pollinated, okay.

These plants are pollinated naturally by wind or insects and their seeds will consistently produce offspring that look and behave very much like the parent plant.

Many seed companies specialize in selling open pollinated and heirloom seeds.

And you can swap them too.

That's often the most enjoyable way.

Saving your own and swapping with friends, family, other gardeners.

It builds community and preserves diversity.

So this practice of seed saving,

what does it mean for the bigger picture or wider world?

Well, this raises an important point that goes way beyond our own garden fences,

beyond the personal satisfaction and cost savings.

Seed saving plays a really vital role in global food sufficiency and biodiversity.

Think about it.

A relatively small number of popular hybrid varieties are rapidly replacing thousands upon thousands of traditional crops that people have cultivated for centuries all over the world.

Right, you see the same few types everywhere.

Exactly.

And those traditional varieties, they represent this huge,

invaluable pool of genetic diversity.

That's the foundation of our entire food supply.

If those varieties are lost because no one grows them anymore.

We lose that diversity forever.

We lose it.

And that genetic diversity is crucial for adapting crops to future challenges like climate change or new diseases.

So home gardeners who grow and save heirloom, open pollinated seeds are actively participating in preserving this priceless biological treasure.

That's a powerful thought.

Can you give us a few practical examples?

What's relatively easy to save seeds from and what might be a bit more challenging for a beginner?

Some are wonderfully straightforward.

Peppers, for example.

You just let some fruits fully ripen on the plant, take out the seeds, dry them thoroughly and store them in a cool, dark, dry place.

Easy.

Peppers sound doable.

Tomatoes require a little extra step.

You need to ferment the seeds in water for a few days first.

This removes a natural germination inhibitor on the seed coat.

Ferment them.

Beans are also easy.

Just let the pods dry completely on the vine and shell them.

Things like garlic and potatoes.

You're not saving seeds, but replanting cloves or tubers, which is also very simple.

And the tricky ones.

More challenging ones include corn.

It's wind pollinated, so different varieties planted near each other will cross pollinate very easily.

You need significant isolation distances to keep a variety pure.

Okay.

Not great for small gardens then.

Probably not for saving pure seed, no.

Squash varieties like zucchini and pumpkins can also cross pollinate readily via insects.

Sometimes you might need to hand pollinate flowers and bag them to ensure purity if you're serious about saving a specific type.

Hand pollination.

Wow.

And then there are biennials, like carrots, beets, cabbage, parsley.

They grow leaves the first year, but only flower and produce seed in their second year.

So you have to leave them in the ground over winter.

Right.

That takes more planning.

It does.

It's part of the learning journey though.

Very rewarding.

All right.

So we've decoded the plant's secret language.

We appreciate the human innovation in breeding, and we've even learned how to cultivate our own unique strains through seed saving.

Now, armed with all this knowledge, let's step into the wild, wonderful world of the nursery.

How do we apply our survivor's guide to actually pick the healthiest plant?

And where should we even start looking?

Good questions.

The source suggests the best place to start is almost always a well -established local nursery, ideally one that guarantees its plants and even better, grows a lot of its own stock.

Why local?

Well, their plants are generally better adapted to your specific regional climate and conditions.

Plus, they often have knowledgeable staff who can actually answer your questions.

Unlike maybe the big box stores.

Exactly.

While supermarkets in those big box stores are tempting because they're often cheaper, you're taking a bigger gamble.

The staff might not be plant experts.

Watering can be inconsistent.

Right, I've seen some sad looking plants there.

And the plants themselves might not actually be hearty or suitable for your area, even if you look okay at that moment.

But don't overlook other spots.

Local church fairs, school plant sales, garden club swaps.

Oh yeah.

You can find real hidden gems there, often divisions or seedlings grown by experienced local gardeners who know what thrives nearby.

Good tip.

So when we're actually at the nursery, rising the aisles, what are the absolute red flags?

What tells you, nope, put that one back no matter how good the deal seems?

Okay, this is crucial for avoiding disappointment later.

Your red flag radar needs to be on high alert.

First, look for obvious signs of stress or poor health.

Like what, specifically?

That means no yellowed or wilted leaves.

For annuals, check the tiny seed leaves, the cotyledons right at the base of the stem.

If those are still green and healthy, that's usually a good sign, even if the plant looks small.

Okay, check the baby leaves, got it.

Second, avoid tall, spindly, stretched out plants.

That usually means they haven't had enough light or they're desperate for a bigger pot.

You want compact, bushy, sturdy looking plants.

Right, stocky, not likey.

Exactly.

Third, and this is hard because it's tempting, try not to buy plants that are already in full glorious bloom.

Really, but they look so nice.

I know, but it's better to choose plants that haven't bloomed yet.

Or maybe just have a few buds.

Let them put their energy into establishing roots in your garden first, then flower.

Buying in full bloom means they've already spent a lot of energy in that little nursery pot.

Dormant shrubs and trees or young annuals and perennials are almost always a better long -term bet.

Okay, resist the instant flower show.

Makes sense.

What other problems should we be actively looking for?

Always do a quick inspection for actual problems.

Signs of bugs or disease.

Look under leaves, check the stems.

What am I looking for?

Little critters?

Yeah, look for actual insects or sticky residue, which can indicate aphids or scale, maybe strangely distorted or curled leaves, black spots, powdery mildew, obvious holes chewed in the leaves.

These problems will weaken the plant and worse, could spread to your healthy plants at home.

Don't wanna bring home trouble.

Definitely not.

Also, plants in the pot are their weeds growing in there.

That suggests neglect and competition for water and nutrients.

Good point.

And a big one.

Check the roots if you can.

Gently slide the plant out of its pot or at least look at the drainage holes.

What are we looking for with the roots?

You don't wanna see a solid mass of roots circling tightly around the inside of the pot or tons of roots growing out the bottom drainage holes.

That means it's pot -bound or root -bound.

And that's bad.

It can be.

Those circling roots might continue growing in that pattern underground and eventually strangle the plant.

You'll need to gently tease them apart or even cut some before planting to encourage outward growth.

But ideally, you find a plant with a healthy developed root system that fills the pot nicely but isn't overcrowded.

Okay, anything else?

Yeah, just a couple more things.

Make sure the plant doesn't pull out of the pot too easily.

That could mean the root system is underdeveloped.

It should feel firmly anchored.

For woody plants, trees, and shrubs, check the stems or trunk for nicks, scars, or cracks.

Those are entry points for disease and might indicate rough handling.

And finally, for plants sold bald and burlapped, those trees and shrubs with their roots wrapped in burlap make sure that ball of earth feels solid and moist.

If it's dry, cracked, or breaks apart easily when handled, the roots inside have likely been damaged, making transplanting much riskier.

Wow, okay, that's a comprehensive checklist.

So once you've navigated all that and picked out your perfect healthy plants, how do we make sure they get home safely and then transition well into our garden?

Preparation is definitely key here.

Ideally, have your planting holes or spots ready before you even go shopping.

Makes life much easier when you get back.

Good planning.

For transport, lay plants down carefully on a level surface in your car, if possible.

Or if they're in the back of a truck, put them near the cab, out of the direct wind, or cover them loosely with a tarp, especially if they have tender new leaves.

The wind can dry them out?

Oh, absolutely, and drive slowly.

Driving at highway speeds creates the equivalent of hurricane force winds for those poor plants.

It can shred leaves and break stems.

Putting smaller pots like annuals and vegetable seedlings inside cardboard boxes helps keep them upright and protected too.

Makes sense, drive like you're carrying eggs or plants.

Exactly.

Once you get them home, if you can't plant them immediately, which happens.

Often.

Put them in a sheltered spot, ideally in shade or semi -shade, preferably near a hose or water source.

Water the root balls gently but thoroughly to keep them moist until planting.

For bald and burlap plants, piling some mulch around the root ball helps prevent it from drying out quickly.

Okay, keep them cool and hydrated.

What about mail order plants?

That seems like a whole different ball game.

Is it a good option?

Are there hidden pitfalls?

Mail order is a perfectly fine alternative.

And honestly, it opens up a much, much wider variety of plants than you'll typically find locally, especially for unusual species, specific cultivars or heirlooms.

So, more choice.

Way more choice.

Plus, you could often buy younger, smaller plants, sometimes in larger quantities, which can be more economical.

But the key is, you must read those catalog descriptions very, very carefully.

What should you look for?

Pay close attention to the full Latin name, first off.

Check the hardiness zone and understand the size terminology they use.

Catalogs might specify the age of the plant, the size of the pot it was grown in, like a two and a quarter inch pot versus a gallon pot, which is a big difference, or specific terms for divisions, like how many eyes a peony root division has.

Eyes.

Yeah, those are the dormant growth buds.

Or how many fans, meaning individual leafy shoots, a daily divin has.

That tells you the starting size and vigor.

Okay, so read the fine print carefully.

What's the experience like when they actually arrive, especially if they're dormant, like you mentioned before?

They often do arrive dormant, especially woody plants shipped in spring or fall.

And that's actually ideal because it minimizes transplant shock.

But they might not look like much.

Like sticks.

Exactly.

The author shares a funny story about receiving what looked like just a bundle of sticks that were actually young rugosa roses, which later grew beautifully.

The key is open packages immediately upon arrival.

Don't leave them sitting in the box.

No.

Check the contents, make sure everything's there and looks okay, and water them if they seem dry.

Then either plant them right away if you're ready, or store them properly.

How do you store them?

Bare root woody plants, those shipped without any soil around their roots, can be healed in.

That's a gardening term for temporarily burying the roots and lower stems in a trench filled with loose soil or damp mulch in a shady spot.

It keeps them hydrated until permanent planting.

Healed in, okay.

Herbaceous perennials, if they arrive dormant or as small plugs, should usually be potted up into containers with good potting mix.

Then you set them outdoors in a semi -shaded protected spot for a week or two to harden off.

Harden off.

Yeah, acclimate gradually to the outdoor conditions.

Sun, wind, temperature fluctuations before you plant them in their final garden location.

Got it.

So what's the biggest drawback with mail order then?

Besides maybe the waiting and the potentially unimpressive initial appearance?

Probably the biggest potential pitfall is exaggerated claims in some catalogs.

You know, photos showing impossibly giant flowers or incredibly dense hedges grown in just one season were sometimes completely made up non -official cultivar names like gilded twinkles or something.

Right, hype over reality.

Exactly.

It's always best practice to cross -reference plant descriptions or nursery reputations.

Consulting websites with shopper reviews for different mail order suppliers is really helpful now.

You can get independent opinions pretty easily.

Good advice.

Okay, this deep dive has covered so much ground from decoding Latin names and appreciating cultivars to saving seeds and navigating the nursery plus getting plants home safely.

But the source ends with a really thought -provoking section on the wider ethical considerations in plant buying.

What should we as gardeners be aware of when we make our choices?

Yeah, this is important.

As the plant trade becomes increasingly global, the source emphasizes we really need to be aware of certain ethical issues and our potential environmental impact.

One major one is invasive plants.

Ah, plants that take over.

Exactly.

Some plants, while beautiful in a garden setting, can escape cultivation and become invasive in natural ecosystems.

They can out -compete native plants for resources like light, water, and space, which in turn disrupts local food webs and can harm native insects, birds, and other animals that depend on the native flora.

That sounds serious.

Is there like a list of bad plants?

Well, there's no single universal master list, unfortunately, because whether a plant becomes invasive is often very specific to a particular region and even a specific site.

For example, purple loosestrife might behave itself in a dry garden border, but if its seeds drift into a nearby wetland, it can completely take over and devastate that habitat.

The best advice is always to consult your local resources, your county extension service, or a state or regional native plant society.

They'll have information on plants known to be invasive in your specific area.

So do your local homework.

That makes sense.

This connects directly to being a responsible gardener and sort of a steward of the local environment, doesn't it?

Absolutely, and closely related to that, the source also highlights the issue of illegal or unethical harvesting of wild plants.

People dig things up from the wild.

Sadly, yes.

Some wild plants, bulbs, and seeds are collected unsustainably from their natural habitats, sometimes even pushing endangered species closer to extinction just to be sold commercially.

It's really essential to only buy plants, especially native ones or rare species, from reputable nurseries that clearly state they propagate their own stock or source ethically from legitimate growers.

How can you tell?

Reputable nurseries are usually transparent about their sources.

If a deal seems too good to be true, especially for a rare plant, it might be.

Ask questions.

Supporting ethical growers ensures you're not contributing to the depletion of wild populations.

It's all part of recognizing that plant shopping isn't just a transaction.

It's a continuous journey of learning, trial, and error.

For sure.

But also an incredible opportunity to observe, to learn, and to connect more deeply with the natural world around you, maybe through visiting botanical gardens, parks, or even just noticing what thrives in your friends' gardens.

So what does this all mean for you, the gardener listening right now?

Well, it means that buying plants is far more than just picking something pretty off a shelf at the store.

It's about understanding a global language that Latin.

It's about appreciating human ingenuity in horticulture through cultivars.

And it's about potentially becoming a steward of genetic diversity through simple practices like seed saving.

It really is.

It's about making informed choices, choices that support not just the health and beauty of your own garden, but potentially the health of the wider ecosystem too.

And here's maybe a final provocative thought for you to mull over.

Given the complex, sometimes hidden origins, and the potential impacts of the plants available to us, how might understanding things like plant nomenclature, breeding history, and the ethics of sourcing change the way you view all the living things you choose to bring into your life, not just the ones in your garden?

Something to think about indeed.

Thank you so much for joining us on this deep dive into how to buy plants guided by the garden primer.

We really hope you feel more confident and inspired to make your next trip to the nursery or your next click on a mail order site, a successful and informed adventure.

Until next time, happy gardening.