Chapter 11: Roses

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Welcome to the Deep Dive.

Today we're going to tackle a gardening myth that, well, it might be holding you back.

It's this idea that roses are notoriously difficult, real high -maintenance divas of the garden.

The kind that need constant fussing, special treatments, maybe even their own personal gardener.

Well, get ready to maybe rethink that.

Our mission today is to unpack some really fantastic wisdom from Barbara Damrosch's The Garden Primer, specifically her chapter on roses.

We're going to show you that actually, contrary to popular belief, roses are pretty robust, resilient plants that anyone can grow successfully.

Yep, even if you're new to gardening, or maybe you just have a small apartment balcony.

This deep dive is your shortcut to being genuinely well -informed about roses.

Whether you're dreaming of just one beautiful pot or maybe a bigger backyard patch, we'll give you some surprising facts and practical guidance tailored for you, our curious learner.

Yeah, it's fascinating, isn't it, how the author just immediately busts that myth.

Right off the bat, roses aren't delicate creatures at all.

They're actually one of the oldest plants known to humankind.

Seriously tough.

I mean, they've been found growing above the Arctic Circle.

Wow, okay.

That says a lot.

It really does.

It tells you about their

innate toughness, adaptability.

And as we get into this deep dive, we'll see how that resilience connects to everything, from choosing the right variety for your climate to using sustainable, organic practices that really make them thrive.

Okay, let's dive in then.

The history of roses.

It's absolutely wild.

It seriously reads like a blockbuster movie script.

Can you even imagine?

Cleopatra apparently greeted Mark Anthony wading through rose petals.

Knee deep.

Incredible extravagance.

Right.

Or the Roman phrase, sub rosa, under the rose.

If a rose was hanging in a meeting room, it meant total secrecy.

Uh -huh.

Anything said there stayed there.

And Persian poets used rose bowers.

These enchanting perfume spaces.

It's just steeped in drama and luxury.

Absolutely.

And, you know, the plot thickens quite a bit in the Middle Ages.

The Catholic Church actually tried to distance itself from some of that Roman excess.

Instead, medieval ladies used roses for more practical things in their cloistered gardens, like for bath water, medicinal syrups.

Oh, interesting.

Yeah.

And even weaving garlands.

That's actually where we get the word of rosaries.

The rose became this really powerful symbol for the Virgin Mary pure Christian love, though you still had some daring exceptions, like that scandalous romance of the rose.

It used the flower as a metaphor for, well, a lady to be pursued.

Okay, here's where it gets even more interesting, I think.

Fast forward to the 15th century.

And a rose garden basically sparks the wars of the roses.

You know, white rose for York, red for Lancaster.

A whole war over roses.

Well, symbolically.

Pretty much.

Then, during the Napoleonic Wars, you've got Josephine Bonaparte.

She developed this incredible obsession.

She built the largest rose collection ever at Melmezon.

And apparently, she even demanded roses seized from enemy ships be sent straight to her.

Talk about dedication to your hobby.

And the rose just keeps playing these powerful roles right into modern times.

Think about the Peace Rose.

Such an iconic story.

Francis Mylan sent cuttings of this hybrid out on the very last plane from France before the Nazi invasion.

No way.

Yeah.

And after the war, he discovered growers all over the world had kept it going, propagated it.

It became this incredible universal symbol of hope.

It just shows the enduring power of this plant.

It's amazing.

And how all that drama circles back to that initial myth, that idea that they're so difficult.

The source even mentions this fictional debate, right, between two critics.

One complaining roses are a pain to grow.

And the other saying they're so sublime, it's worth any struggle.

And the author's real takeaway for you, the listener, is that both of those critics are missing the point.

Roses are not inherently hard to grow.

They are fundamentally, she calls them, a stalwart shrub.

Scalwart.

I like that.

Yeah.

The key to success is really just choosing the right variety for your climate and learning, well, a few tricks.

It's not rocket science.

You know, you could strive for those perfect exhibition worthy roses.

Like the prize winners.

Exactly.

But for most of us, the real joy is having perfectly okay roses, which means healthy plants that survive the winter and give you loads of beautiful showy flowers for bouquets all summer, year after year.

That consistent beauty.

That's it.

That reliable return is precisely why they're so satisfying to grow.

So, okay, if you're listening and thinking about planting a rose, what does this actually mean for you?

It sounds like you have way more options than just that classic, you know, florist rose image.

Oh, absolutely.

A surprising range of options.

Roses come in all sorts of growth habits.

You've got small shrubs, big shrubs, hedges, climbers, even ground covers.

And the biggest insight here, I think, is that the perfect rose isn't one specific type.

It's the right type for your situation, your climate, your lifestyle.

Finding what works locally.

Exactly.

That's your shortcut to success.

Local nurseries are gold mines for this kind of info.

And even your local chapter of the American Rose Society, they can give really tailored advice.

Okay.

So what are some of the main types we should know about?

Right.

Let's touch on a few key ones just to give you a feel for the diversity.

First, hybrid teas.

These are the icons, right?

The big, high -centered flowers, kind of the supermodels of the rose world.

Okay, yeah.

The classic image.

That's usually what people picture.

And they were revolutionary.

They brought in continuous blooming in that huge color range back in the late 1800s.

Just know they often need a bit more, let's say, pampering in colder zones.

They have warm climate ancestors.

Gotcha.

So maybe not the first choice for a total beginner in a cold place.

It would be challenging, yeah.

Then you have flora bundas.

Think of them as like the heartier, more relaxed cousins of the hybrid teas.

They bloom in clusters, usually shorter bushes, generally easier to grow, good disease resistance, great for landscaping, low hedges.

Okay, that sounds more manageable.

Definitely.

Then climbing roses.

Now, it's important to remember they aren't true vines, like ivy.

They send up these stiff, woody canes and use their thorns to hook onto things.

Ah, so they need help climbing.

Vane support, yeah.

And the key insight here, they bloom best on horizontal shoots.

So if you train one, think sideways along a fence or trellis.

Not just straight up, you'll get way more flowers.

Good tip.

Then there are old roses or historical roses.

This is a huge category.

Galakas, damasks, centifolias.

They're having a real comeback.

People love their amazing fragrance and unique shapes, sometimes flat or with that little button eye in the center, or those big, lush cabbage roses.

Cabbage roses.

Yeah, they connect you right back to centuries of history.

And finally, wild or species roses.

These are the ancestors.

Often simple flowers, but incredibly vigorous, really resistant to pests and diseases.

The tough originals.

Exactly.

And ecologically vital.

Their open flowers are packed with pollen bees and pollinators love them.

Plus, after they bloom, they produce those colorful hips.

Right, the little fruits.

Yeah, with vitamin C, great food for birds through the winter.

Just make sure if you plant wild roses, choose native ones for your area that supports your local ecosystem best.

Okay, wow.

So many choices.

So you've picked a type.

Now the practical stuff.

Where do they actually go?

And how do you get this spot ready?

Right.

Well, if you really get into roses, you might dedicate a whole bed to them.

Even on a small scale, you can create something lovely.

Maybe a dark evergreen hedge behind them to make the colors pop or an arbor for a climber.

Nice.

But something often overlooked and super effective is companion planting.

Mixing them with other plants.

Exactly.

It's not just about looking pretty, though it does.

It attracts beneficial insects that help control pests naturally.

Think subtle flowers that complement the roses, airy things like sea lavender or spiky like lavender or fox gloves.

Silvery foliage plants work great too.

Like a little ecosystem.

Precisely.

It's a wonderfully sustainable approach to garden design.

Okay, let's talk basics.

Absolute must haves.

Location, location, location.

Right.

Where do you put these things?

Sun.

Roses are sun worshipers.

Generally, you need at least six hours of full sun every day.

Six hours.

Okay.

And eastern exposure is often perfect.

Morning sun dries the dew off the leaves, quickly helps prevent disease.

And you avoid that really harsh afternoon sun that can sometimes fade the flower colors.

Makes sense.

What else?

Shelter from harsh winter winds is good, but, and this is important, you also need good air circulation.

Stagnant air promotes disease.

So sheltered but not stuffy.

You got it.

And maybe the most critical thing, drainage.

Excellent drainage is non -negotiable.

Roses hate having their roots sit in water.

They just won't survive it.

So if you have heavy clay soil that puddles.

Build a raised bed.

Seriously, it's the best solution.

Or amend the soil like crazy, but a raised bed guarantees good drainage.

Alright, good advice.

So you found the perfect spot.

Now, the soil itself.

How do you prep it?

Roses are pretty adaptable, actually.

They often do better in clay than really sandy soil because clay holds moisture.

Oh, really?

I always thought clay was tough for roots.

It can be, but the moisture retention is good for roses.

The real key though, no matter the soil type, is plenty of organic matter.

Compost, well -rotted manure, peat moss, leaf mold, work lots of that in.

It improves the structure, helps drainage in clay, helps moisture retention in sand, adds nutrients.

Okay, organic matter is king.

Definitely.

Aim for a fairly neutral pH, around 6 .0 to 7 .0.

And since roses have deep roots, dig the bed deeply when you first prepare it.

Oh, and a pro tip.

If you can prep the beds in the fall for spring planting, that gives the soil time to settle.

Then you can plant nice and early while the roses are dormant.

Good planting.

Okay, spots ready, soils prepped, time to buy.

Those colorful tags at the nursery can be overwhelming.

How do you choose a good plant?

Talk to the staff at a reputable local nursery first.

They really know what thrives in your specific area.

That's invaluable.

When you're looking at the plants themselves, aim for what they call dormant two -year -old number one field -grown plants.

Okay, what does that mean in plain English?

It basically means a healthy vigorous plant.

Look for at least three good strong canes, maybe about 18 inches tall or so.

You might see ratings like AIOS All -America rose selections.

They can be a guide, but don't only rely on them.

You might find other fantastic roses that just weren't submitted for awards.

Right.

Trust your local nursery's advice too.

Absolutely.

If you order bare root roses, ones that come without soil, soak their roots in a bucket of water for about 24 hours before you plant them.

And if you buy potted roses, just look for healthy green foliage, no obvious spots or pests, keep them watered and maybe in semi -shade until you plant.

Got it.

Now,

the moment of truth.

Planting them, how do we get them in the ground properly?

It's pretty straightforward actually.

First, spacing.

Think about the mature size of the rose you bought.

You want enough room between plants for good air circulation.

That's your best defense against disease.

Right.

Maybe two feet apart for hybrid teas, less for miniatures, more for big shrubs or climbers.

Okay, give them space to breathe.

Exactly.

Dig a nice big hole, wide and deep.

Give those roots room to spread out.

If you're planting bare root, don't let the roots dry out while you're working.

Some people dung them in a bucket of muddy water puddling right before planting.

Muddy water.

Yeah.

Keeps them moist.

Now, here's a crucial detail.

The bud union.

That knobbly bit where the fancy rose variety is grafted onto the tough root stock.

Uh huh.

I've seen that bulge.

Right.

Where you place that relative to soil level is important.

In warm climates, keep it just above the soil.

But in cold climates, you want to bury it an inch or two below the soil level.

That gives it vital winter protection.

That's a key difference.

Huge difference.

Make a little mound of soil in the bottom of the hole.

Drape the roots over it.

Then gently fill the soil back in around the roots.

Firm it gently.

Water, when the hole is about half full, let it soak in and fill the rest of the way.

No air around the stem to hold water.

And fertilizer?

Not right away.

Don't feed them immediately after planting.

You want the plant to focus on establishing its roots first, not putting out top growth.

Makes sense.

Let it settle in.

Exactly.

So we've busted the myth.

Roses aren't these delicate creatures needing constant fuss.

But, you know, a little ongoing care helps them really shine.

That's right.

It's not about fussing.

It's about smart care.

Like, supports for climbers.

Supports aren't just about stopping them flopping over.

They actually help you get more flowers.

How so?

Remember how climbers bloom best on horizontal growth?

Supports let you train those main canes sideways along a fence or fup and over an arbor.

That encourages lots of lateral flowering shoots to come up.

More blooms.

Clever.

Okay.

And water.

We know they need it, especially when blooming.

Deep roots help.

But yes, during dry spells, they need a good, deep soaking to keep flowering well.

Best way.

Water the soil, not the leaves.

A soaker hose or drip irrigation is ideal.

Keeps the foliage dry.

Prevents disease.

And morning is best.

Morning is definitely best.

Gives the leaves all day to dry off if any water splashes on them.

Right.

And weeding.

Every garden needs it.

Yep.

Get perennial weed roots out when you first make the bed.

Then just cultivate lightly to stop annual weeds.

And here's a really important point for sustainability.

Avoid systemic herbicides around roses.

Why's that?

They're really sensitive to them, for one.

But also, those herbicides kill everything, including the beneficial insects that help you control pests.

Ah, okay.

So what's the alternative?

Mulch.

A good layer of mulch, shredded bark, compost, whatever does wonders.

Suppresses weeds, keeps the soil moist so you water less.

It's a win -win.

Mulch is magic.

Got it.

Now, feeding.

How do we give them the right food?

If you started with good and rich soil like we talked about, you're already ahead.

A top dressing of well -rotted manure or mature compost in late fall or early winter is usually great.

Feeds the soil slowly.

Like a slow release meal.

Exactly.

If you want an extra boost, maybe a liquid feed like a fish emulsion or seaweed mix after the first big flush of flowers, and maybe again in early August for good fall bloom.

But here's the crucial timing thing.

Don't feed them late in the season, like early fall.

You don't want to encourage lots of soft tender new growth right before winter.

It'll just get zapped by the frost.

Think of it as no big meals right before bedtime for the roses.

Okay.

No late night snacks for roses.

Easy to remember.

Right.

Now,

the topic everyone dreads a bit.

Pests and diseases.

But you're saying it's not as scary as it seems.

Not if you approach it holistically.

The author's whole strategy is built on prevention.

Choose the right roses for your climate.

Give them sun and air circulation.

Build great soil.

Mulch.

Water and feed properly.

Prune correctly.

If you do all that, you minimize problems significantly.

So a healthy plant is the best defense.

Absolutely.

And if one particular rose is always struggling, always diseased despite your best efforts, the author has some pretty pragmatic advice.

Which is?

Basically ask yourself if it's worth the constant battle.

If the answer is yes, that it's always a problem, I usually discard it and go on with my life.

Sometimes it's better to focus on the plants that thrive.

Okay.

Tough love for sometimes.

Sometimes.

But for common things you might see.

Like black spot.

Those black spots on leaves.

Especially in humid weather.

Or powdery mildew.

That white coating.

Prevention is key.

Resistant varieties.

Good air flow.

Keep leaves dry.

A simple baking soda spray.

One tablespoon per gallon of water can sometimes help manage mild cases.

Baking soda.

Really?

Yep.

Changes the pH on the leaf surface.

And for bugs.

Japanese beetles.

Hand pick them into soapy water.

Or some people even use a small shop vac.

A vacuum cleaner.

Love it.

Hey, whatever works.

See ants.

They're probably farming aphids.

Blast them both off with a strong spray of water from the hose.

Usually does the trick.

The goal is always the least toxic, most targeted approach first.

Support the good bugs.

Discourage the bad ones.

Okay, that sounds much more manageable.

Now, pruning.

This often seems really intimidating.

It can seem that way, but it doesn't have to be.

For the average home gardener, the goal is simple.

Keep the rose healthy, well shaped, and flowering freely.

You can get away with minimal pruning,

honestly.

But a bit of controlled pruning does lead to, well, nicer roses, more blooms, better shape.

When's the best time?

Depends on your climate.

Warm areas, often late fall or winter.

Colder places.

Usually spring, after the worst of winter is over, and you can see any dead or damaged wood, clearly.

Okay, and the main technique?

The single most important concept isn't about complicated cuts.

It's about opening up the center of the bush.

Cut out dead wood, weak or twiggy growth, and any canes that are crossing or rubbing against each other.

You want sun and air to get right into the middle of the plant.

Air circulation again.

Always.

It's key for disease prevention and helps the flowers display nicely.

When you cut a cane back, make the cut just above a bud that's facing outward, away from the center.

That directs the new growth outwards.

Smart.

Keep it open.

Exactly.

Okay, last touch for that polished look.

Deadheading.

Removing the old flowers.

Right, deadheading.

Just snipping off the spent blooms.

It encourages more flowers on many types, especially smaller bushes, and it keeps the garden looking neat.

You basically cut back to the first leaf with five leaflets, making sure the bud just above it faces outward.

Same principle as pruning.

But you mentioned sometimes not deadheading.

Yes.

Crucial exception.

If your rose produces nice hips, those colorful fruits don't deadhead after the main bloom.

Let those hips develop.

They're often beautiful in fall and winter.

They're packed with vitamin C, and they're fantastic food for birds and other wildlife.

So they offer winter interest and ecological value.

Absolutely.

Many older roses and species roses have the most spectacular hips.

Adds a whole other season of beauty.

Great point.

Okay, last big topic.

Getting them through winter, especially in cold places.

Right.

Winter protection.

First step starts in late summer.

You want the roses to sort of wind down naturally.

So no feeding late in the season.

No heavy pruning.

You don't want that soft new growth going into winter.

Make sure they're well watered before the ground freezes hard if it's been dry.

Let them harden off.

Exactly.

Then in cold regions, after you've had several good hard freezes, but before the ground is frozen solid, it's time to cover the non -hardy types.

Even hardy ones can benefit.

How do you cover them?

The classic method is mounding soil up around the base, maybe six to 12 inches high.

Use soil brought in from elsewhere.

Don't scrape it up from around the rose roots.

For climbers, you can sometimes detach them, lay the canes down gently and bury them with soil or leaves.

Wow.

Okay.

Less work involves barriers.

Put up a ring of wire mesh or snow fence around the bush, or even just use big baskets and fill the enclosure loosely with leaves, shredded bark or straw.

Rose cones you buy are another option.

Lots of ways to tuck them in.

Yep.

Then in spring, when you see new growth starting, gently remove the covering material or soil mound.

And remember, a good heavy snow cover is fantastic natural insulation.

So don't curse the snow too much if you have roses.

Exactly.

It's protecting them.

You know, what's really striking is how much simpler it all becomes once you grasp these core ideas.

Roses really are some of the most satisfying plants to grow, and truly they aren't inherently difficult.

The trick, the real key, is choosing the right ones for your garden, your climate, and just understanding their basic needs.

Knowledge really is power here.

So what does this all mean for you listening right now?

It means you've got the fundamental insights now.

You can approach rose gardening with real confidence, whether that's just a single pot on a dorm window, maybe a small patch in a community garden, or even if you're just, you know, appreciating their history and their role in the ecosystem a bit more, it's about connecting with nature, right?

Understanding these ecological processes, finding that real joy and nurturing life.

And I love this quote from Barbara Damrosch at the end of the chapter.

She says, you might never wade knee deep in rose petals like Cleopatra.

Probably not.

Probably not.

But she says, as the little chores of rose growing become routine, you'll wonder how you could ever have a garden without at least a few roses in it.

It's true.

They really do draw you in.

They really do.

Thank you so much for joining us on this deep dive.

We hope you feel a little more informed and definitely a lot more inspired to maybe give roses a try.