Chapter 13: Ground Covers
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Welcome back to the Deep Dive.
We're here to take that pile of information and really distill it down into the essentials you can actually use.
Today we're embarking on, well, a fascinating deep dive into a really key part of thoughtful gardening.
We're pulling our insights straight from Barbara Damrosch's The Garden Primer, a classic, really.
Specifically, we're tackling Chapter 13, Ground Covers.
Now, when you hear ground covers, maybe you think something purely functional, a bit static perhaps.
But our mission today is to kind of flip that script.
This isn't just about covering the ground.
It's about understanding these dynamic living solutions, things that tackle real challenges in your outdoor spaces.
Could be a vast, unruly slope or maybe just a tricky spot around a tree base.
We're going to unpack this sometimes dense gardening knowledge into something practical, accessible, and hopefully really engaging for you, whether you're, you know, a seasoned green thumb or maybe just starting out.
It's about seeing how these maybe humble plants are actually key players, key players in sustainable living, organic growing, even broader environmental impact, and, of course, making your space look better.
So here's the big idea that really starts it all.
The foundational principle Damrosch emphasizes nature really does not like bare earth, and, well, it turns out neither do effective gardeners.
That's exactly right.
Think about it if you've ever walked through a natural woodland, maybe along a coast.
You've seen ground covers in action, even if you didn't, you know, consciously register it.
In the wild, these lower story plants, they aren't just there.
They form this intricate living tapestry.
They're really nature's first line of defense, protecting the soil from wind, from rain erosion.
They hold onto precious moisture for the bigger plants, and they simply elegantly fill every available space.
They're the quiet workhorses, really, making sure the ground is always working, always protected, always productive.
Okay, so nature hates a vacuum.
What does that mean for us in our gardens?
Well, for a gardener, bare earth is basically an open invitation.
An invitation for?
Unwanted guests.
Think crabgrass, stubborn poison ivy, ragweed, even wild raspberries can be pretty aggressive.
Right, they're not just annoying, they actually compete, don't they?
Exactly.
For nutrients, water, light.
And they often win.
Ground covers are your proactive strategy.
They let you have a real say in what colonizes your plots.
So they solve problems, definitely.
Yes, famous problem solvers.
But what's fascinating is how many are also just incredibly beautiful.
They become essential elements for designing a harmonious, lower maintenance landscape,
kind of mirroring that natural balance.
It's about taking control, shaping the space intentionally.
Okay, let's dig into this term, ground covers.
You mentioned it's broad.
Very broad.
It's far beyond just those tiny, low plants you might first picture, say, for edging a flower bed.
Demarosh's definition is wonderfully inclusive.
It's really anything that will cover ground attractively and quickly, thoroughly, permanently.
Permanently, okay.
Yes, and crucially, without creating new problems for you later on.
Ah, that's key.
No unintended consequences.
Precisely.
It's about finding the right plant for the right purpose, thinking creatively.
So what kind of plants are we talking about then, beyond the obvious low ones?
Well, it definitely includes low -growing shrubs.
Shrubs as ground cover.
Absolutely.
Certain cotton esters, maybe some Daphnes, the classic creeping junipers they offer, evergreen structure, year -round interest.
There's even a prostrate sumac called Grow Low.
Very tough, great for dry spots.
Interesting.
And in really arid climates like the southwest, this lowest layer is often quite shrubby.
Things like indigo bush or coyote brush.
Yeah.
But it doesn't stop there.
Even some vines.
The climbing vines.
Some, yeah.
Like the native woodbine.
It can creep across clearings just as happily as it climbs a wall.
It covers ground effectively.
Wow, okay.
So the category's much wider than I thought.
Much wider.
Think about common herbaceous perennials too.
The ones that die back in winter.
Many of them, yes.
Yeah.
Planted en masse, they make fine ground covers.
Think hostas for shade.
Oh, right.
With all those leaf variations.
Exactly.
Or daylilies, providing dense summer cover.
Or creeping flocks that blast of spring color.
That definitely solves the bare earth and spring issue.
It does.
You can even mass something like black -eyed Susan for a big drift of color.
Native grasses, sedges, spreading ferns like lady fern.
All potential ground covers.
And for shady spots.
Woodland natives are perfect.
Yeah.
Like bunch berry or foam flower.
They create that natural forest floor look.
It keeps getting more diverse.
What about herbs?
Some herbs are fantastic.
Prostrate rosemary, for example.
Tough, drought -tolerant, fragrant.
Great for sunny, dry areas, especially out west.
I can almost smell it.
And here's where it gets really practical.
Even surprising.
Two herbs that seem delicate, Roman chamomile and creeping thyme.
They are so resilient, they can actually handle moderate foot traffic.
But traffic?
Yes.
You can grow them as lawn alternatives.
Imagine a frequent soft carpet instead of grass.
That sounds amazing.
A chamomile lawn.
It's a lovely idea.
Even annuals, like white alyssum or Chinese, forgive me not, can work if they reliably recede themselves.
Easy annual color.
So how do they all do it?
How do they create that carpet?
Ah, the spreading mechanism.
That's their superpower.
Most do it in a few ingenious ways.
Many use rhizomes.
Those are modified stems that travel sideways underground.
Out of sight.
Right.
And they send up new shoots along the way, expanding the colony.
Others use stolen, similar, but they run above the soil surface.
Think of strawberry runners.
Okay, got it.
Stolen's above, rhizomes below.
Exactly.
And some just have branches that trail along the ground and root where they touch down.
Just rooting as they go.
Simple as that.
This natural spread is the engine behind their effectiveness.
And you need to understand it.
Why is that so critical?
Because it guides your choice.
Do you need a gentle spreader for a small border or something really vigorous for a big, tough area?
Knowing how they spread helps you manage them, stops them becoming, you know, invasive in your own garden.
Right.
Preventing a friendly plant from becoming a thug.
Precisely.
And that leads into design.
While filling bare ground feels urgent, designing with ground covers is a long -term commitment.
You mentioned permanence earlier.
Yes.
You need to think about the look you want from the start.
Do you need that evergreen consistency?
Like juniper, periwinkle, patchy sandra, same look all year.
Or maybe you're okay with seasonal changes.
Right.
Plants that might die back in winter, revealing different textures or patterns.
Your vision guides the choice.
That makes sense.
It's an investment.
So what kind of looks can you create?
You could aim for a really low flat carpet.
Irish moss.
Maybe creeping thyme.
Perfect between stepping stones or setting off other plants.
Creates a clean line.
Like living grout.
Kind of, yeah.
Or if you need drama, maybe cover a bank.
Go for something tall or yellow root.
Or even ostrich fern for that architectural look.
And formal versus informal.
Wild ginger is great for a tidy, formal -looking shade.
Yellow root, again, suits a more natural, informal setting.
Blends right in.
Your design goals really drive the choice.
And how they interact with other plants.
That's important too.
Absolutely crucial.
A vigorous ground cover that's fine on its own could overwhelm weaker perennials if they're planted too close.
Like bullies in the border.
A bit, yes.
And vines, remember, they'll climb if they find something.
A shrub, a tree, anything.
You have to anticipate that.
So manage the spread.
Always.
But on the flip side,
some creepers are very polite, spreading modestly.
They're ideal for the front of a border.
Doing double duty, suppressing weeds, and covering ground early on.
Exactly.
And preventing that bear look in spring.
You know, and other powerful ideas, using them as a unifying theme.
Oh, definitely.
Imagine you've got a mixed -rub border.
Different plants, different seasons of interest.
Maybe across the front of the house.
Right.
Planting the same ground cover around the base of all those shrubs can visually tie it all together.
Makes it look cohesive.
Intentional.
Not just random plants.
Ah, I see.
Like a green thread running through.
Exactly.
You can echo textures, colors, maybe dark periwinkle with rhododendrons.
Or create contrast -rounded wild ginger leaves against lacy fern fronds.
Nice.
Sometimes the ground cover's a whole show.
Like I need planting a spiky lily turf next to a patio.
Very architectural.
Very serene.
Okay, so lots of possibilities.
But this brings up a critical point.
What not to plant.
Yes.
The cautionary tale.
The very thing that makes them good, vigorous spreading can also be their biggest danger.
You mean becoming invasive.
Highly invasive.
You have to be extremely careful they don't escape into the wild and displace native plants.
It's an environmental responsibility, not just a garden choice.
So which ones does Damarosh warn against?
She specifically mentions things like gout weed, oriental bittersweet, Japanese honeysuckles,
English or Algerian ivy, hot tunina,
most polygonums, like fleece flower.
Wow, some of those are still salt sometimes.
They are, unfortunately.
These can completely out -compete native flora, disrupt ecosystems, and be incredibly difficult to get rid of.
So the advice is?
Always, always check with your local native plant society or extension office.
Find out what's invasive in your specific area.
It varies.
This is absolutely critical for responsible gardening.
Protect local biodiversity.
Makes perfect sense.
Okay, so assuming we choose responsibly, the next big step is matching plant to place, right?
Your specific garden.
Exactly.
This is where it gets really practical.
Your unique environment dictates everything.
The number one decision.
Will this plant actually thrive in your climate, your soil?
And even within one yard, there are differences.
Microclimates, yes.
Those subtle variations from sun, shade, walls, trees, slopes.
But the good news is, there's likely a ground cover for almost any situation.
And they often succeed where fussier plants fail.
That's one of their strengths.
They're great for those tough spots.
Like shade.
Grass often hates shade.
Deep shade is tough for most things, but yes, many ground covers excel there.
Ajuga is great, offers foliage and flowers.
Lamium -spotted dead nettle is brilliant for brightening dark corners with its silvery leaves.
Despite the name?
Despite the name.
Wild ginger is elegant in shade.
And patchy sander, of course, the classic evergreen for under trees.
But not total darkness.
No, very few plants tolerate full deep shade.
You might need to prune lower tree limbs to let some light filter through.
Or even encourage moss.
Okay, what about the opposite, full sun?
Lots of choices there.
Bearberry, heather, tough coyote brush, creeping thyme sedums.
Plants that just bake in the sun and love it.
And dry spots.
Those areas that never seem to get enough water.
Again, things like coyote brush, bearberry, thyme, prostrate junipers are good candidates.
But remember, dry is relative.
How so?
Well, a dry woodland in Wisconsin is very different from a high desert in California, right?
You need to know it's consistently dry soil or just seasonally dry.
Match the plant to the type of dryness.
Got it.
And wet spots.
Near a downspout, maybe?
For moist soils, sweet woodruff is lovely.
Certain mints, but be careful they can spread like crazy.
Right.
Mint needs containment.
Definitely.
Wild blue flocks is another good one for moist areas.
What about slopes?
Erosion control.
Ah, critical function.
For banks and slopes, you need vigorous fast spreaders with deep, fibrous roots.
Think bearberry, spreading cotton Easter, that grow low sumac.
They hold soil year round.
Essential for sustainable landscaping.
And one more combination bulbs.
Oh yes, a brilliant pairing.
The ground cover foliage hides the fading bulb leaves after they bloom.
When they look kind of messy.
Especially the smaller bulbs, like crocuses.
Exactly.
Periwinkle is particularly good for this because its growth is a bit open, lets sun through to warm the ground, encourages early blooming.
It's a win -win.
Continuous beauty.
Okay, so we've picked our plant, matched it to the site.
How do we get started?
Establishment.
Crucial for long -term success.
For permanent plantings like ground covers, soil preparation is key.
Don't skimp.
How deep?
At least 8 inches, ideally 12.
Amend with organic matter.
Ensure good drainage.
Create an inviting home for those roots.
It pays off later.
And buying the plants can get expensive for large areas.
It can.
So often, buying in quantity makes sense.
Look for flats of 50 or more.
Nurseries usually offer discounts for bulk buys.
Makes it much more affordable.
Planting time doesn't matter.
It does.
Cold climates.
Plant in spring to avoid winter heaving that free spa cycle pushing roots out.
Odd summer climates.
Plant in fall or very early spring.
Gives roots time to establish before the heat stress hits.
And if you can't plant right away.
A temporary mulch -shredded bark straw helps protect the bare soil from drying out or eroding while you wait.
Good tip.
How close together should we plant them?
Depends on the plant's speed and your patience, really.
And your budget.
Quick spreaders like Periwinkle or Apache Sandra, plated 6 inches apart, might give you a thick bed in 2 years.
And further apart?
Maybe 12 inches apart.
Might take 3, maybe 4 years for that really lush look.
Remember the saying?
Which one?
The first year they sleep, the second year they creep, and the third year they leap.
I like that.
Sleep, creep, leap.
Patience is needed.
A little patience, yes.
Really?
While you're waiting for them to leap, you need to weed.
Ah, the weeding.
Especially important early on.
Critically important, yes.
And it can be tricky in established beds, especially if the weeds have similar creeping roots.
Like trying to get grass out of Apache Sandra.
It can be.
So be vigilant.
Especially about grass.
Maybe use edging or a barrier to separate ground covers from lawns.
Good advice.
What about getting more plants?
Propagation.
This is where ground covers are often fantastic for sustainability
and saving money.
They're usually easy to propagate.
Division is common.
Just dig up a clump, pull or cut it into smaller pieces.
Layering works too.
Bend a stem down, pin it, let it root while attached.
Rooting cuttings is often possible.
Or just taking chunks from a thick patch and moving them.
So sharing is easy.
Often your best source is a neighbor with too much.
Happy to share the wealth.
But one important don't.
Absolutely crucial.
Never dig native ground covers from the wild.
Always buy from a reputable nursery.
Protect those wild ecosystems.
Right.
Buy responsibly.
Okay, let's quickly spotlight a few of the plants mentioned just to bring them to life.
Good idea.
Let's start with Ajuga, or bugleweed.
What's special about Ajuga?
It spreads fast.
But the cool thing is, it takes more foot traffic than most.
Great for path edges.
Plus, lovely dark green or bronze foliage forms a dense mat.
Good weed suppression.
Tough and pretty.
Okay.
Next.
Epimedium.
Bishop's hat.
It's really dainty heart -shaped leaves.
Delicate little flowers like tiny columbines.
But it's tough.
Incredibly tough.
Adaptable.
Good even under trees where roots compete.
Spread slowly but steadily.
Really graceful for shade.
Nice.
How about lanium?
Spotted dead metal.
Yeah.
Terrible name.
Great plant for shade.
The leaves often have striking white or silver markings.
So they brighten up dark spots.
Exactly.
It really illuminates gloomy corners and it spreads fast with those runners.
Quick cover.
Empachysandra.
The classic.
The go -to for dense evergreen cover, especially right under trees where it's shady and hard to mow, creates that uniform green carpet.
But keep it out of full sun.
Yes.
Leaves tend to yellow in too much sun and grass can invade more easily.
Needs shade to look its best.
Got it.
Wild ginger.
Elegant.
Forms a dense, tidy mat of rounded leaves in shade.
Good weed suppressor.
Flowers are hidden, but the leaves and roots have a unique pungent smell.
Great for moist, shady natural areas.
And finally, yellow root.
Maybe not a showstopper flower -wise, but beautiful and useful, especially for large, informal shaded areas you want to plant economically.
Its strength is?
Dense, shrubby form.
Fantastic yellow -bronze fall color.
Tolerates quite deep shade and provides cover and seeds for wildlife.
Good ecosystem plant.
Great examples.
Okay, let's try and wrap this up.
To recap our deep dive.
Ground covers are way more than just fillers.
Right.
They're active, beautiful solutions, offering natural erosion control, moisture retention, weed suppression.
And that aesthetic unity we talked about.
Success comes down to selecting the right plant for your specific spot, preparing the soil well.
And understanding how they spread so you can manage them long -term.
We've seen how they really contribute to a more sustainable, low -maintenance, organic approach to gardening.
Yeah, transforming bare earth into a thriving little ecosystem.
It empowers you to make choices that benefit your garden and the environment.
So as you look around your own space, maybe a yard, maybe just a container,
what bare patch might you transform with a living tapestry?
And maybe think about how these principles apply elsewhere.
Where else does life dislike a vacuum?
And how can we purposefully fill it with something beneficial and beautiful?
Lots to think about there.
Thank you for joining us for this deep dive into ground covers.
We hope you feel more informed.
Maybe inspired.
And ready to get your hands a little dirty.
Until next time, keep learning, keep growing, and keep exploring.
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