Chapter 14: Vines

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Imagine looking out your window at, well, it's the blank uninspired brick wall.

Yeah, happens all the time.

Or maybe you've got a patio that gets absolutely scorching hot in the summer, you know, a place you'd love to relax, but it's just too exposed.

Or maybe you simply need a

polite, a living screen, something to create a bit more privacy from a, let's say, curious neighbor.

Right, a green curtain.

Exactly.

What if there was a vibrant growing solution to these common outdoor dilemmas,

a solution that's beautiful, functional, and surprisingly simple to guide and cultivate?

That's where vines come in.

Welcome to The Deep Dive, where we take fascinating topics, pull out the essential knowledge, and deliver those surprising facts that, well, make you feel truly well informed.

And today, yeah, we've pulled the most valuable insights from Barbara Damrosch's The Garden Primer.

We want to unlock the secrets of vines for you.

So what's the mission today?

Our mission is really to simplify this often dense world of these incredible plants.

We want to show you how they can transform your spaces, maybe contribute to sustainable living, and even teach us a thing or two about growth and support.

Okay, we're here to make this practical, accessible, and hopefully full of those aha moments,

even if you've never picked up a trawl before.

Let's unpack this.

So the source kicks things off describing vines as willful children, which I got to say is a fantastic image for a plant.

It really is, isn't it?

What does that analogy really tell us about how we, as gardeners, need to approach them?

Are they truly as independent as they seem, or is that willfulness actually more like a cry for guidance?

It's a perfect analogy, actually, because while vines possess this incredibly strong, almost stubborn drive to reach for the light, to climb upwards, their stems are inherently long and weak.

So they absolutely need support, always.

The big picture here is that vines aren't just set it and forget it plants.

They're more like partners in design.

They want to climb desperately, but they need us to show them the ladder, so to speak.

And without that?

Well, the source says without that guidance, the growing shoot just kind of hangs there in midair, disappointedly, and eventually falls.

I've always thought of vines as purely functional, you know, covering an eyesore wall or something.

It's a common view, yeah.

But it sounds like there are many other reasons the source highlights that might actually surprise people about just how versatile vines are.

Oh, absolutely.

Beyond solving those common problems, like needing privacy or shade, vines offer really attractive leaves, beautiful flowers, some even bear fruit, and their unique growth habits, twining, clinging, reaching azoles.

They provide this fantastic visual contrast in pretty much any landscape.

So function and form.

Exactly.

Think of them as both functional and ornamental powerhouses.

They add this dynamic texture where maybe other plants might fall a bit flat.

So for someone just starting out, maybe feeling a little intimidated, what's the most critical take -home message from this initial look at vines?

The most important takeaway.

It's really that success with vines boils down to careful choice and careful placement.

The source explicitly warns that most troubles, most problems people have,

stem from using the wrong vine for a given spot.

Makes sense.

And it's also really important to remember that vines aren't just one uniform group.

They vary wildly.

How so?

Well, some are annuals, right?

They live their whole life in one season.

Others are perennials coming back year after year.

Some are herbaceous, soft, flexible stems.

Others are woody, developing tougher, more tree -like growth over time.

They can be hardy, surviving harsh winters, or tender, needing protection.

And some are incredibly vigorous.

I mean, they grow at an astonishing rate.

Like something out of a sci -fi movie sometimes.

Huh.

Yeah, almost.

While others are much more restrained, the only constant, the one thing they all share, is that fundamental need for support.

That makes a lot of sense.

So given they all need support,

what are the main climbing styles we need to understand?

Because this seems pretty fundamental for deciding where to plant them, right?

Oh, it's critical.

Absolutely critical.

Because the way a vine climbs directly informs what kind of support it needs.

And therefore where you can realistically grow it.

Vines are generally grouped by their primary climbing method.

And each method, well, it requires a different approach from you, the gardener.

Okay, let's break these down then.

First up, pwining vines.

These are the ones that actually wrap themselves around something.

Exactly.

These vines literally twine their stems around an object, ideally something vertical.

Think of a wisteria maybe, or a morning glory.

They respond to touch.

When they touch something, they actually produce cells faster on the opposite side, causing them to bend and coil around that support.

That's cool.

In the wild, it's often another plant, like a tree.

In your garden, it could be a pillar, a fence post, even a downspout works well.

So what kind of support do they need?

They need, they then coil up and tighten, pulling the vine closer to the support.

But just like the twining vines, the object still needs to be thin enough for those tendrils to wrap around effectively.

So what works for them?

Things like wire mesh or wooden lattice are usually good, as long as they're strong enough to hold the vine's weight.

Right.

For instance, you know, a delicate climatus might do fine on simple chicken wire, but a really robust grapevine, that's going to require a much stronger heavy -duty trellis.

Gotcha.

So we've covered vines that wrap and vines that grab, but then there are these fascinating holdfasts.

I've definitely seen vines that seem to just stick right onto walls.

What exactly are aerial rootlets or adhesive disks?

How do they work?

Yeah, this is where vines get truly specialized in how they climb.

These are the true stickers, as the source calls them.

Stickers, okay.

Aerial rootlets are these short,

hair -like projections.

They literally burrow into tiny fissures in a surface, think mortar joints between bricks or rough tree bark.

Adhesive disks, on the other hand, they're different.

They're little round plates at the ends of thin tendrils, and they work basically by suction, almost like tiny little suction cups.

And both of these methods allow these types of vines to climb flat vertical surfaces that the twining or tendril vines just couldn't handle, like a smooth brick wall, a rock face, you know, any kind of masonry.

Ivy, that's the classic for aerial rootlets, and Virginia creeper uses those adhesive disks.

Okay, this distinction, how they climb,

seems absolutely critical for where you place them.

What's the practical implication here, especially thinking about potential damage?

That's exactly it.

You've hit the nail on the head.

For instance, with those stickers, we just talked about the aerial rootlets or adhesive disks.

While they're fantastic for masonry, brick, stone, there's a crucial warning.

They can seriously damage wooden structures.

How so?

They can penetrate the wood or they trap moisture right up against it, which leads to rot over time.

And imagine trying to paint or repair a fence with an ivy vine, basically woven into it.

It's nearly impossible without causing significant harm, either to the vine or the structure itself.

Right, so you need to be really intentional.

Very intentional, very careful about where you place these specific types.

And finally, just quickly, are there plants that aren't technically vines, but we often grow them in a similar way, like things with long arching branches?

Yeah, the source mentions these as leaning climbers.

Good point.

These plants aren't technically vines because they don't have those specialized climbing mechanisms.

No twining, no tendrils, no holdfasts.

How do they climb?

They basically rely on other plants or structures for support.

They essentially grow up through the branches of shrubs or small trees.

Some, like climbing roses, actually use their thorns to hook on.

Others just sort of lean on dense branching patterns nearby.

So in a garden?

Right.

In a garden setting, if you want them to grow upright, you'll almost always need to tie them to some kind of support.

They won't really climb on their own.

Climbing jasmines are another good example of this type.

Now that we understand how they climb, let's explore where we can put these incredible plants to work.

What are some of the common scenarios where vines can really shine in our gardens or maybe even on our homes?

Yeah, the source gives some excellent, really practical advice for different situations.

It helps you choose the right vine for the right purpose and hopefully avoid some common mistakes.

Okay, first one,

fences.

Lots of people have that ugly but necessary fence they'd love to soften or cover up.

What's the best advice for using vines on fences?

Well, the key thing is to choose ornamental vines that you actually like the look of, even if they don't completely hide the fence immediately.

Right.

It's about softening the look.

Exactly.

They'll soften its visual impact, draw the eye away from the structure itself.

For something like a split rail fence, especially if it has wire mesh attached, lighter tendril vines like clematis or maybe some climbing roses work wonderfully.

They can weave through easily.

And for solid fences.

For solid fences, you might need to add something for them to grab onto like plastic mesh or maybe string some horizontal wires across it.

That works for vines like clematis or even heavier ones like, say, trumpet vine.

And any major pitfalls to watch out for, especially thinking about those wooden fences again.

Absolutely crucial.

We mentioned it before, but the source strongly advises against growing those clinging vines, the ones with rootlets or discs on wooden fences.

Because of the damage.

Exactly.

They damage the wood by penetrating it, and they keep it constantly moist, which inevitably causes rot.

Plus, like we said, it becomes almost impossible to paint or repair the fence properly.

But chain link is different.

Totally different story.

Chain link fences are actually great candidates.

They're easy to cover entirely with vigorous twining vines, something like Dutchman's pipe.

You can effectively turn an unsightly fence into a lush green hedge.

OK, now a vine on a building.

That can be a real statement piece, right?

It can totally transform the look.

But it sounds like it can be a delicate relationship.

It really is a balance.

What makes for a truly harmonious pairing?

Or conversely, what could lead to a disastrous one?

Well, a good match offers mutual benefits.

The vine gets support, obviously, and often warmth from the building.

How interesting.

Yeah, they often grow more rapidly against a wall, and sometimes that retained heat even helps them survive winter in colder zones.

And the building gets?

In return,

the vine beautifies the wall, it cools the interior in summer by shading the surface, and it can even add a little bit of winter insulation.

So where does that relationship turn sour?

When does it become destructive?

It can turn disastrous if you choose the wrong vine for the wrong building material.

Those clinging vines, the stickers, they are an absolute no -go for wooden buildings, period.

They can rot or pry off wooden shingles, clapboards.

They can even damage vinyl or aluminum siding.

Wow, even on brick?

Even on masonry, yeah.

If the mortar is loose or crumbly, those little rootlets can get in there and cause issues over time.

But solid masonry is okay?

Generally, yes.

On solid brick, stone, concrete, or stucco, they usually support themselves completely.

But you still need to be watchful.

Keep an eye on window frames, shutters, roof shingles.

These vines can damage them or grow right up into the eaves if you're not careful.

Okay, so for those of us who might still want vines on our buildings but want to play it safe, what about twining vines?

Can they work?

You can certainly use them, yes.

But the key is, you must provide the support yourself because they won't stick on their own.

For lighter ones like morning lorries or maybe a soft -stemmed clematis, the source suggests using transparent fishing line tied to little screw eyes in the wall.

Clear.

Yeah.

For heavier vines like passionflower, maybe copper wire is better.

It weathers to a nice unobtrusive green color.

And for the really big guys,

wisteria, trumpet vine.

Right.

For those very heavy woody vines, you'll need something much sturdier.

A stout wooden trellis is often recommended.

And ideally, position it maybe a foot or so out from the wall.

Why the gap?

That space is crucial.

It allows for good air circulation behind the vine, which helps prevent moisture problems on the wall.

And it also makes painting or maintenance much easier, especially if your support is removable, like a hinged trellis design.

That makes sense.

Now, trees.

It kind of feels intuitive that vines might be bad for trees.

I mean, I've definitely seen trees that look like they're being choked out.

Yeah, that image is common.

But the source seems to offer a bit more of a nuanced view.

You're right to be cautious, definitely.

And yes, heavy large -leaved vines, like say a wild grapevine, they can indeed harm trees.

They cut off light, they add a lot of weight, and eventually, yeah, they can kill the tree.

But it's not always bad.

Not always.

A properly chosen vine, and one that's managed, maybe pruned a bit, can actually enhance a tree's appearance.

Well, a climbing hydrangea, for instance.

It clings to the trunk with its rootlets and can gradually climb into the tree without really harming it.

Or you could use a lightweight flowering vine, like a clematis or maybe a climbing rose, to add some seasonal color to a small tree or even a large shrub.

The key there is that the tree's branches need to be open enough for the vine to get enough sunlight to actually bloom well.

So it sounds like mindful placement and just good common sense are key when you're thinking about introducing vines to trees.

Exactly.

And you wouldn't want to introduce a vine if the tree itself, or maybe it's trunked, is better appreciated without it.

You wouldn't want to hide the beautiful peeling bark of a white birch or the delicate foliage of something like a Japanese maple.

And here's a great trick the source mentions for a really natural look.

Dead trees, or snags, as they're sometimes called.

They make excellent ready -made supports.

Vines like Virginia creeper look beautiful in circling their old trunks and branches.

It kind of gives new life to that old form.

That's a cool idea.

Sometimes, though, you need to build the support from scratch to get the exact effect you want, right?

Yes, absolutely.

Often the most sensible solution is Halermade support.

You can buy ready -made decorative trellises, sure, especially for lighter vines.

But for the big ones?

For those substantial woody vines, you'll likely need something much sturdier.

Things like freestanding pillars sunk deeply in the ground, maybe with cross pieces at the top, or a series of posts connected by horizontal beams or heavy gauge wires.

Planning ahead here prevents a lot of future frustration.

And arbors, they just sound delightful for creating an outdoor room.

Oh, arbors are fantastic.

They're essentially overhead structures you can walk or even sit under.

They truly create shaded outdoor rooms.

Perfect for?

Perfect for displaying those large,

maybe fragrant flowering vines, like roses or jasmine right overhead.

You can even add annual vines for extra seasonal variety, or maybe even vining food plants, I think.

Tomatoes, cucumbers, or decorative gourds hanging down.

Edible to core.

Yeah.

For the main shade structure, you'd want to choose deciduous vines, ones that lose their leaves in winter, something with dense foliage like grapes or Dutchman's pipe.

Why deciduous?

Because they block that scorching summer sun, but then they drop their leaves in the fall, allowing the warming winter sun to filter through when you want it.

Smart.

Now, containers.

I honestly wouldn't have thought of vines for containers.

That seems like a really creative idea.

It's actually a brilliant way to handle a couple of things.

You can grow potentially aggressive vines without them completely taking over your garden beds.

Containment.

Exactly.

Or it's a great way to add lush greenery, where you might only have paved surfaces like a patio or a balcony.

What kinds work in containers?

Smaller annuals, like morning glories, can look great in hanging baskets.

Or even small -leaved ivies cascading out of moss -lined baskets.

You can also just grow a vine in a large pot place right next to a support structure, like a fence or a wall trellis.

Or you can even integrate a trellis directly into the container itself.

It's incredibly versatile, and it lets you move the plant around for the best sun or the best visual effect.

Vines sound quite responsive, actually.

So how much control do we truly have over their growth?

And how do we actually supervise them, as the source puts it, to get the results we want?

You have a surprising amount of control.

The source really emphasizes that you can significantly influence their growth rate, and you can direct them pretty precisely where you want them to go.

This makes them a very rewarding type of plant to work with, I think.

So if I'm impatient, maybe, and I want really rapid growth, what's the secret?

And conversely, what if I want them to be a bit more restrained, less likely to take over?

Okay, for rapid, vigorous growth, the advice is to amend the soil really generously.

Use nutrient -rich compost or well -rotted manure.

Maybe add some rock powders, like rock phosphate, green sand, lime, depending on what your soil needs, of course.

Feed them well.

Feed them well.

And then top dress regularly with a balanced organic fertilizer.

Something like a fish and seaweed emulsion works great.

And for slower growth.

If you want slower, more contained growth, just go easy on the fertility.

Don't overfeed them.

And maybe use peat moss to lighten the soil instead of that rich manure.

Essentially, yeah, you're feeding them according to the pace you desire.

Okay, pruning.

Pruning always feels like a big commitment with any plant, but maybe especially with vines that can get so big.

Any core principles to help us manage their size and shape without accidentally killing them?

Huh, yeah, the fear is real.

But it can feel intimidating, sure.

But vines are surprisingly resilient plants, most of them.

That's good to know.

While there's no single pruning rule that applies to all vines, they're too diverse for that there is a general principle.

Okay.

Pruning in late winter or early spring tends to stimulate more vigorous new growth.

In contrast, pruning in summer or fall tends to help control rampant vines because it directs the plant's energy away from making more vegetative growth at that time.

So timing matters.

What about a vine that's just gotten totally out of control, a real monster?

For a truly monster vine, yeah, one that's gotten completely out of hand, the advice is generally to thin out whole branches right back to a main stem or even near the base late in the season.

Don't just snip the tips that often just encourages more bushy growth.

Go big or go home, kind of.

Sort of.

And consistent yearly pruning is really your best friend here.

It prevents them from becoming that tangled, unmanageable mess in the first place.

And if you mess up.

Remarkably, vines often regenerate beautifully even after really severe cutbacks.

Like, say, if you have to remove one almost completely to paint a house, it'll likely come back strong.

Okay, that's actually a huge relief to hear for anyone who's ever accidentally massacred a plant.

We've all been there.

So once they start growing, how do we actually direct them?

This is where the training part comes in, right?

That's right.

You'll often need to manually guide them, especially those twining vines on flat walls where they can't find anything to grab easily or those leaning climbers we talked about.

How do you do that?

It usually means tying them to their supports, sometimes permanently, sometimes just temporarily until they can attach themselves or get a good grip.

What do you use for ties?

For lightweight vines or just for temporary guidance, soft twine or those little green twist ties work perfectly fine.

For the large woody vines, though, you'll need something stronger and more durable, like plastic coated wire.

Okay.

Any vital do's and don'ts when it comes to actually tying them?

We don't want to hurt the plant in the process.

Oh, absolutely crucial point.

Never ever tie a vine in a way that will constrict or girdle the stem as it grows thicker over time.

Because that would.

That can effectively choke the vine, cutting off circulation, and it can kill it.

So if permanent ties, especially, make them loose, make them large enough to accommodate that future stem growth.

Often, a loose figure eight pattern works well.

Good tip.

Yeah.

This ensures the tie expands with the vine, allowing for healthy growth.

Now, the source also brings up a really, really crucial point about environmental impact, especially this idea of good vines gone bad.

This feels like a major responsibility for any gardener, doesn't it?

It really does.

This raises a very important question, not just for us as gardeners, but for broader environmental health.

When vines move from being simply aggressive in the garden to becoming truly invasive in the wild.

Yeah.

They do far worse things than just inconvenience us.

Many of the worst offenders are imports, plants brought from other parts of the world.

Without their natural checks and balances, the pests, the diseases from their native habitats, they can just run rampant here.

How do they disrupt things?

They invade and seriously disrupt local ecosystems.

They out -compete our native plants for light, for water, for nutrients, preventing them from growing.

And when native plants disappear, that removes crucial food and habitat for local wildlife, insects, birds.

The whole food web suffers.

Kudzu is sort of the poster child for this, isn't it?

Everyone seems to have heard of Kudzu.

It really is.

The ultimate cautionary tale, imported to the US from Japan actually over a century ago, initially for things like erosion control.

It escaped cultivation and now just smothers vast areas, particularly in the southeast.

The source mentions driving through Georgia and seeing entire forests of trees just totally draped in it, looking like these strange green prehistoric animals.

It's even creeping northward now with climate change.

Wow.

Are there others we should know about?

Oh, yes.

Many others pose a similar threat.

The source mentions porcelain berry and silver lace vine being problematic near New York City.

Behaving almost as badly as Kudzu in some areas.

Some, like the Asian wisterias, can roam underground with runners and invade forests, acting as real tree stranglers.

Even our own Native American bittersweet, which can be relatively benign in colder climates, apparently becomes highly destructive in warmer ones.

This sounds like a huge responsibility for us as gardeners.

What's the ultimate takeaway here?

How can we make responsible plant choices and be good environmental stewards?

The advice from the source is strong and very clear.

Always check.

Before you plant any vine, especially one you're not familiar with, check with your local native plant society or your county's extension service.

Why them specifically?

Because they'll know which plants are problematic in your specific region.

Invasive species vary geographically.

Checking ensures you're not accidentally contributing to environmental harm.

Instead, you can choose plants that contribute to sustainable beneficial growth, supporting local ecosystems, and maintaining biodiversity.

It's about making informed choices that really go beyond just your own garden plot.

Okay, that's super important.

Let's maybe pivot now and quickly highlight a few specific vines from the source, just to give people a taste of the diversity out there, focusing on some of the really good choices that embody these principles we've been talking about.

Great idea.

Let's start with Allegheny vine, maybe.

It's also known as climbing fumatory.

This is a really gentle, dainty, tendril climber.

It has lovely funny leaves and these tiny pale pink flowers.

It's actually a biennial.

Oh, so it lives two years.

Right.

And it's happy climbing through trees without harming them.

And get this, it's actually endangered in some states, so growing it, well, it can actually help conservation efforts.

That's fantastic.

What's next?

Clamatus.

Everybody loves clamatus, right?

Beloved for its wonderful, often spectacular, long blooming flowers, and its generally manageable growth.

How does it climb?

It clings with tendrils, actually using its leaf stalks to wrap around things.

It famously prefers sun on its flowers, but cool shaded roots, the classic head in the sun, feet in the shade.

Good tip.

Be patient with it, though.

It can take a few years to really get established and start blooming profusely, but the reward of those incredible flowers is absolutely worth the wait.

Okay, cool.

What about something for shade?

Dutchman's pipe.

This is an excellent, really trouble -free twining vine, perfect for creating dense, cooling shade on arbors or porches.

Why is it good for shade?

It has these large, heart -shaped, overlapping leaves that form a thick, dark green blanket in the summer.

And conveniently, it drops them all in winter, allowing that sunlight back through when you want warmth.

And the name?

Its quaint little flowers actually resemble an old -fashioned smoker's pipe.

And a bonus,

it serves as a vital host plant for the larvae of the beautiful pipevine swallowtail butterfly.

Double duty.

Nice.

How about honeysuckle?

I feel like that one has a mixed reputation.

It does, and for good reason.

It's absolutely crucial to avoid the highly invasive Japanese honeysuckle.

It's a terrible pest in many areas.

So what's the alternative?

Instead, choose native varieties, like the trumpet honeysuckle.

It's a vigorous but well -behaved twining vine.

It has these beautiful, bright, red -orange, trumpet -shaped flowers that bloom almost continuously from early summer right into winter in milder climates.

Oh, wow.

And hummingbirds absolutely adore them.

You can plant it right by a window and watch them visit.

Love that.

What about an annual vine?

Something quick and showy.

Hyacinth bean.

This is a fabulous annual.

It's grown mainly for its stunning display, bright lavender flowers and sprays, and then these amazing, glossy reddish -purple pods develop.

Even the leaves have a slight purplish hue.

It sounds gorgeous.

It is.

It's a vigorous, twining vine, quite drought -resistant once established, and looks beautiful scrambling over an arbor.

And like the honeysuckle, it attracts hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees.

While the beans are edible in some parts of the world, here it's primarily grown just for ornament.

OK.

Climbing hydrangea.

That sounds interesting.

It is.

It's a woody vine.

And this one clings with those aerial rootlets we talked about earlier.

Oh, one of the stickers.

Exactly.

So it's excellent on masonry walls, brick, stone, and it can also climb large trees without harming them.

But big warning again.

Don't put it on wood.

Do not use it on wooden buildings because of the damage those rootlets can cause over time.

It's quite slow to establish.

You need patience.

OK.

But eventually it offers these beautiful, large, flat -topped white flower clusters, usually around June.

And it also has attractive peeling bark in winter, which adds interest even when the leaves are gone.

Nice winter interest.

Yeah.

And finally, wisteria, another one with a potentially tricky reputation, right?

Very tricky.

Again, the key is avoid the invasive Asian species.

That's the Chinese and Japanese wisterias.

They are incredibly rampant.

They can be very destructive to structures.

And frustratingly, they often take many, many years to bloom, if they ever do reliably.

So are there good alternatives?

Yes.

Opt instead for our native wisterias, like Kentucky wisteria or American wisteria.

They are much less aggressive growers.

Beautiful.

Still beautiful toining vines, yes.

They produce lovely purple flower clusters, usually after the leaves emerge.

So maybe not quite as dramatic as the Asian ones sometimes.

And they might lack that really strong fragrance.

But they are much better behaved and ecologically sound choices.

Hashtag, hashtag, outro.

So hopefully you now feel like you have the tools, you know, the basic understanding to choose the right vine for the right spot.

Yeah.

You understand the different ways they climb, where they're likely to thrive.

And crucially, how to manage their growth responsibly and sustainably.

Yeah.

From concealing maybe an ugly fence or wall to creating a fragrant shaded retreat,

vines offer just incredible versatility and beauty.

This deep dive really shows us that even these willful children of the plant world can be guided with some thoughtful care to create something truly magnificent and, importantly, environmentally beneficial when chosen correctly.

Absolutely.

Knowing a plant's nature, understanding its strengths, its needs, how it grows, and its potential impact beyond your garden that's just key to successful sustainable gardening and landscape design.

So here's something to think about.

What overlooked problem spot in your own life, maybe around your home or even somewhere in your community, could potentially be transformed by the thoughtful guided ambition of a vine?

Something to ponder.

Definitely food for thought.

Really hope you enjoyed this deep dive.

Thank you so much for joining the deep dive team.

We'll be back soon with another topic to unpack.